Huia's 2017 Traditional Method Blanc de Blancs is all Chardonnay, barrel fermented and aged as base wine. The second fermentation in bottle was followed by 32 months aging on the lees prior to disgorgement and a dosage of just six grams per liter. All toasty brioche and ripe citrus on the nose, it's a lovely sparkler, medium-bodied and rich but refreshing at the same time, with a lingering, elegant finish. Delicious now, it should continue to drink well for up to a decade.

Toasted brioche and lemon curd appear on the nose of the 2016 Blanc de Blancs Traditional Method. Still youthful, it shows ample fruit—Golden Delicious apples and citrus—with a bit of oak (the base wine fermented and matured in older French oak) and just enough autolytic complexity. Crisp and medium-bodied, I expect it will age gracefully for a decade or more, although I suspect few people will keep bottles around that long.