Now in bottle, the 2020 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés has turned out brilliantly. Indeed, this tensile, incisive, concentrated white Burgundy would embarrass many much loftier appellations. Unwinding in the glass with scents of Meyer lemon and crisp stone fruit mingled with hints of freshly baked bread, Anjou pear and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and penetrating, with terrific depth at the core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. At last, Lalou Bize-Leroy has a rival in Auxey-Duresses! Bottled under Diam 30, this wine will richly reward patience, but its quality is unmistakable.

The 2019 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés is terrific, unwinding in the glass with scents of pear, hazelnut, white flowers and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's muscular and concentrated, with racy acids and a cooler, more mineral profile than the Vignes Denses that preceded it, reflecting the cooler mesoclimate and more easterly exposition of this parcel.

The 2018 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés has turned out brilliantly, offering up aromas of crisp Anjou pear, blanched almonds, white flowers, pastry cream and struck flint. Medium to full-bodied, it's deep and layered, built around an elegantly muscular chassis of chalky dry extract and underpinned by lively acids. Its almost tannic grip lends it supplemental freshness and structure in this warm vintage. This is another brilliant wine from Jean-Marc Vincent.

Jean-Marc Vincent's 2017 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés lives up to its excellent performance from barrel, unfurling to reveal aromas of Anjou pear, Meyer lemon, hazelnuts and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with super concentration and a long, chalky finish. This parcel was planted some 80 years ago by Vincent's great-granduncle.

A wine for purists, the 2016 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés unfurls in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of crisp green orchard fruit, mint, dried white flowers and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tensile and concentrated, with a tight-knit, almost austere profile that's underpinned by tangy acids and chalky dry extract. A few years' patience will be rewarded.