The aging potential of these white wines from La Castellada is just incredible. The orange color of this 2011 Collio Ribolla Gialla is more pronounced, with an even brighter copper tint. Again, there are slightly dry aromas of orange and dry candied sensations, which might only feel that way because of the undeniably dry tannins. The overall effect on the palate is like a plate of dried fruit, in a really good way, yet at the same time, it feels somehow pristine and bright. This wine sees an impressive 60-day skin maceration time with 36 months of aging in large oak casks. Some 5,600 bottles were made.

This is a very unusual wine that adheres to the Orange Wine philosophy. The 2009 Collio Ribolla Gialla seems to have absorbed all of the natural pigmentation and intensity of the the Ribolla Gialla grape and then some. It sees a prolonged two-month maceration period. The bouquet is sharply delineated and dry. Ribolla Gialla takes on extra oxidation naturally and those oxidative characteristics are even more pronounced here. Carmel, candied fruit, dusty mineral and candied orange peel are in center stage.

The 2008 Collio Ribolla Gialla is a fabulous example of the orange school of winemaking that has taken off with such verve. Ribolla Gialla is indeed the protagonist of this movement because of the variety’s ability to take on oxidative tones that develop with complexity as the wine macerates, in this case for two months. It offers very little in terms of fruit aromas. Instead, you get dried apricot, brown sugar and butterscotch. In the mouth, the wine drinks more like a red than a white wine. It shows rich texture and a hint of tannic structure that suggests a pairing with honey roasted ham or pork stuffed with sweet prunes. A fine mineral tone wraps around the long finish. Drink: 2014-2022. Stefano Bensa and his family have produced a strong set of new releases from their estate in the Oslavia subzone of the Collio. These are true protagonists of the ViniVeri or “natural” wine movement that enjoys such an important foothold in this remote corner of northeast Italy. We call them “Orange Wines,” and although they won’t appeal to all consumers, the high quality presented here makes a strong case that this unusual subset should not be dismissed as a faddish winemaking whim. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com