The 2003 Rosso della Castellada is an exciting, super-ripe wine loaded with sumptuous dark fruit. The 2003 Rosso possesses gorgeous inner perfume as well as remarkable elegance in its tannins, no small feat in this vintage. The hot weather seems to have been a huge help in ripening the fruit here. The style in this vintage is decidedly ripe and opulent, yet the 2003 Rosso offers exceptional balance all the way through to the round, harmonious finish. This is an exceptional wine in every way. Rosso della Castellada is mostly Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is a very strong set of releases from La Castellada, particularly considering the good, but not great, quality of the 2005 vintage. The 2005 whites seem to be made in a style that favors richness of fruit over aromatics but it is impossible to argue with the wines’ overall balance. Given the enviable location of the estate’s hillside vineyards, my feeling is that La Castellada has the potential to make some of the very finest whites in Friuli and Italy, for that matter. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Very chiseled and fine, the 2001 Collio Rosso della Castellada shows its age in a very graceful manner. This blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, is laced with petite aromas of dried cherry, black currant, toasted pine nut, black licorice and dried tobacco. These multiple aromatic layers come together with a compelling sense of harmony and elegance. Optimal harvest conditions have helped shape a wine with power, structure and a bright sense of acidity that keeps its energy output high – very high, in fact. The wine can be enjoyed now or put aside for five years or more. Drink: 2014-2020. Stefano Bensa and his family have produced a strong set of new releases from their estate in the Oslavia subzone of the Collio. These are true protagonists of the ViniVeri or “natural” wine movement that enjoys such an important foothold in this remote corner of northeast Italy. We call them “Orange Wines,” and although they won’t appeal to all consumers, the high quality presented here makes a strong case that this unusual subset should not be dismissed as a faddish winemaking whim. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com

The 1999 Collio Rosso della Castellada (90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a gorgeous effort. It reveals a compelling array of berry, licorice, herbs, earthiness and crushed flowers. This delicate, medium-bodied wine won’t overwhelm readers with its sheer size but it will conquer those who are willing to pause for a moment to contemplate the depth and singularity of its expression. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. La Castellada is located in the hills of Oslavia, just outside Gorizia. Working from a tiny, cramped cellar the outspoken, passionate Niccolo Bensa crafts artisanal wines loaded with personality. The wines, which see partial maceration on the skins, are made in a style that may not appeal to every palate, but readers looking to discover a unique expression of Collio terroir owe it to themselves to check out this winery. The estate favors French oak barrels for aging, with the exception of the Ribolla which is aged in medium-sized casks. Bensa prefers to release his wines, the Rosso in particular, later than most of his colleagues, so these are his current releases. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799