Very chiseled and fine, the 2001 Collio Rosso della Castellada shows its age in a very graceful manner. This blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, is laced with petite aromas of dried cherry, black currant, toasted pine nut, black licorice and dried tobacco. These multiple aromatic layers come together with a compelling sense of harmony and elegance. Optimal harvest conditions have helped shape a wine with power, structure and a bright sense of acidity that keeps its energy output high – very high, in fact. The wine can be enjoyed now or put aside for five years or more. Drink: 2014-2020. Stefano Bensa and his family have produced a strong set of new releases from their estate in the Oslavia subzone of the Collio. These are true protagonists of the ViniVeri or “natural” wine movement that enjoys such an important foothold in this remote corner of northeast Italy. We call them “Orange Wines,” and although they won’t appeal to all consumers, the high quality presented here makes a strong case that this unusual subset should not be dismissed as a faddish winemaking whim. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com