The 1999 Collio Rosso della Castellada (90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a gorgeous effort. It reveals a compelling array of berry, licorice, herbs, earthiness and crushed flowers. This delicate, medium-bodied wine won’t overwhelm readers with its sheer size but it will conquer those who are willing to pause for a moment to contemplate the depth and singularity of its expression. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. La Castellada is located in the hills of Oslavia, just outside Gorizia. Working from a tiny, cramped cellar the outspoken, passionate Niccolo Bensa crafts artisanal wines loaded with personality. The wines, which see partial maceration on the skins, are made in a style that may not appeal to every palate, but readers looking to discover a unique expression of Collio terroir owe it to themselves to check out this winery. The estate favors French oak barrels for aging, with the exception of the Ribolla which is aged in medium-sized casks. Bensa prefers to release his wines, the Rosso in particular, later than most of his colleagues, so these are his current releases. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799