This is a unique expression of Gavi (from the far-away 2000 vintage) that shows the extraordinary aging potential of this lively white wine. The elegance is all in the aging. Stone fruit and floral notes are enhanced by white mineral, smoky ash and dried lemon zest. The wine is fresh and crisp with a sour almond note on the close. This wine won’t appeal to everyone. ——M.L.(11/1/2011)—— 90