The 2021 The Contrarian is made up of 48% Grenache Blanc, 38% Viognier and 14% Picpoul fermented in concrete eggs. The nose offers quince, golden apples, almonds and beeswax, and the medium-bodied palate is refreshing and textural with savory fruits and a long, juicy finish. Drink it on its own or pair it with lighter dishes.

The 2013 Contrarian is an interesting mix of 57% Grenache Blanc, 20% Picpoul, 14% Viognier and the balance Roussanne. It has fantastic richness and depth, yet still seems crisp and lively, with notes of white flowers, poached pears, pineapple and honeycomb all emerging from the glass. This medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced white has juicy acidity and a savory, dry finish that perfect for pairing with food. Enjoy bottles over the coming couple of years. I had a fantastic tasting with owner/winemaker Matt Trevisan, and to my palate, this estate is at the top of their game. The wines have incredible purity across the board, and while they pack serious flavor and depth, they never seem heavy, over-the-top or cumbersome in the least. You can't go wrong with any of these. Tel (805) 227-0797, www.linnecalodo.com

The only white produced and a beauty, the 2011 The Contrarian is made from 57% Grenache Blanc, 27% Picpoul and the balance Viognier. Whole cluster pressed and aged all in concrete, it gives up beautiful stone fruits, citrus peel and chalky minerality to go with a clean, balanced and richly textured profile on the palate. I love it for its purity and depth. It will be versatile on the dinner table and have 1-3 years of prime drinking. Drink now-2016. This was a fantastic lineup of wines by proprietor Matt Trevisan and all of the current releases have brilliant purity of fruit and a lively, energetic feel without ever coming across as lean. Blends are the rule here and these are character-filled efforts that could come from nowhere else. Highly recommended. Tel (805) 227-0797; www.linnecalodo.com

The 2010 Contrarian is a striking wine. It shows pretty scents of grapefruit, lime, flowers and white peaches, with a highly attractive balance of ripeness and freshness. I especially like the energy and cut of the finish. Contrarian is a blend of 68% Grenache Blanc and 17% Picpoul Blanc, both estate, and 15% Viognier from Denner. The wine was aged mostly in fiberglass. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Matt Trevisan is one of the more colorful characters in Paso Robles. His wines are equally eccentric, and show flashes of brilliance sprinkled with plenty of unexpected twists. Trevisan seems to be especially gifted with Zinfandel based blends. Like some of his colleagues, Trevisan has begun experimenting with fermenting in cement vats. I get the sense that if Trevisan were a little more focused his wines could make a significant jump in quality. I also tasted the 2009 Nemesis and Slacker from barrel just before bottling, but neither wine seemed to be showing well. I will report on those wines once I have a chance to taste them in finished form from bottle. Tel (805) 227-0797; www.linnecalodo.com

The wine wasn’t made for a couple of years, but Trevisan has resurrected his beautiful Rhone Ranger white, the 2009 Contrarian, which is still in tank. This blend of 65% Viognier, 12% Grenache blanc, and the rest Roussanne and Picpoul goes through full malolactic fermentation yet retains tremendous acidity and minerality. This wine displays oodles of orange peel, marmalade, honeysuckle, and white currant notes. Medium to full-bodied with loads of fruit, this wine is best drunk in its first 2-3 years of life. (Not yet released) This is one of my favorite wineries in the Central Coast. The brain trust behind it is the one and only Matt Trevisan, who has moved into a state-of-the-art winery and barrel-aging facility. Additionally, he is just beginning to get some fruit off the first plantings in the 18-acre estate vineyard. Production is up to about 3,800 to 4,000 cases, although like everyone else in the Central Coast region, yields have been very small in 2007, 2008, and 2009. 2008 has turned out very well for Trevisan, but the yields were extremely small. Tel. (805) 227-0797; Fax (805) 227-4868