A more tense, focused expression of Nebbiolo comes through in the 2008 Barolo Cerretta. Firm yet well-balanced tannins provide the backdrop for expressive dark red fruit, spices and licorice. There is a mid-palate pliancy and generosity in the 2008 that is a bit unusual in this vintage, but at the same time there is also plenty of underlying structure. In 2008, the Cerretta is similar in style to Vajra's Barolo Albe. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. I remain utterly amazed at the total transformation that has occurred under the hands of the Vajra family at what was once the old dilapidated Baudana estate, and the best is yet to come. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Rinascimento Wine Co., Santa Monica, CA; tel. (310) 314-1136

The 2007 Barolo Cerretta is serious juice. This dark, imposing Barolo covers every inch of the palate with deep layers of dark Serralunga fruit. There is tremendous excitement in the glass. The 2007 Barolo Cerretta is sensual, racy and powerful, all in equal measure. It is a wonderfully complete, delineated wine that captivates all of the senses. This is another dazzling effort from Giuseppe Vajra. Wow! Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Luigi Baudana is one of the great recent success stories in Piedmont. Giuseppe Vajra has totally turned around the quality at this once middle of the road estate since purchasing the winery in 2008. All three of the 2007 Baroli are terrific. The integration of oak and overall balance of the wines has never been better. In short, the Vajras have pretty much blown the roof off the potential at Baudana?.and the wines they have released so far had already been vinified and partly aged when they bought the property. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Rinascimento Wine Company, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 270-3747

The 2006 Barolo Cerretta reveals more overt influence than the Baudana in its aromas, flavors and texture. High-toned menthol, flowers, spices and dark red fruit all make an appearance in this beautifully delineated Barolo. The intensity of the fruit carries through nicely to the long, vibrant finish. The Cerretta is a touch fresher and rounder than the Baudana in this vintage. This is another commendable effort from the Vajra family. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. This is another set of delicious wines from Baudana, which seems to have found a new gear under the ownership of the Vajra family. These 2006 Baroli are very strong, even if the qualitative jump over previous vintages is not quite so striking as it was last year. Still, it will be fascinating to see the direction these wines take with the newer vintages that Vajras have shepherded from start to finish as opposed to these wines, which they found essentially already made when they bought the winery last year. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Rinascimento Wine Company, Santa Monica, CA; tel. (310) 314-1136