Joseph Drouhin, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, France

約瑟夫杜魯安（香牡-香貝丹特級(jí)園）紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：13672

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, loamy soil and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with ripe, supple tannins and lively acids, it's broad and charming, concluding with a nicely defined finish.

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru exhibits aromas of red cherries, potpourri, citrus rind and creamy new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and expressive, with an exuberant core of succulent, mouthwatering fruit that largely conceals a fine-grained framing of tannin. Giving and fruit-driven, this will drink well in its youth.

Drouhin's 2016 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with aromas of ripe cherry and berry fruit that mingle with nuances of espresso, dried flowers and grilled meats, all framed by some toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a sappy core of nicely concentrated fruit, fine tannins and bright balancing acids. This is an elegant, racy Charmes-Chambertin that is somewhat reminiscent of the 2010 rendition.

The 2014 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru comes from two suppliers, but one was dropped and replaced after last year since they felt quality was not high enough. It was picked on September 19 and 22, completely destemmed and aged for 17 months in oak. I found this showing just a touch of reduction on the nose, but with encouragement it reveals attractive blackberry and bilberry aromas, a touch of violet with time. The palate is smooth on the entry, supple in the mouth with well judged acidity, a pinch of white pepper towards the finish that (like other 2014s at this stage) is structured so that it feels Mazoyères in style. I think they made a good decision giving that grower his P45 -- this is excellent.

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru was cropped October 4-10, partial whole-cluster and matured for 13 months in oak. The nose is quite opulent and showy, although for me, it does not quite have the finesse of the Lavaux Saint Jacques ’13. The palate is medium-bodied with quite rigid tannins, especially for a Charmes-Chambertin, with a touch of hardness on the finish. I suspect that this will improve with bottle age.