The organic Malvirà 2017 Roero Riserva Mombeltramo shows the signs of a hot vintage with ripe fruit and dried raspberry. The wine is quite simple in the end, and it prioritizes softness and ease of delivery.

The Malvirà 2015 Roero Riserva Mombeltramo offers candied fruit and even a touch of cherry cough drop with aniseed and licorice. Those spicy licorice tones are present throughout these red wines from Malvirà, and they pop up in a few of the estate's white wines as well. The tannins are silky and integrated, yet that nervous rambunctious quality you get with Nebbiolo is ever present.

The 2011 Roero Riserva Mombeltramo is a streamlined and elegant wine with aromas of wild berry, anise seed and campfire ash. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and sees extended maceration times. It ages in oak barrel for two years. The Mombeltramo vineyard is characterized by loose, calcareous soils and east-facing exposures. Some 7,800 bottles were produced.

The 2009 Roero Riserva Mombeltramo gives us a nice look back in time. This late-release wine is fine and silky, with extremely polished or almost glossy aromas of fine fruit, tarry smoke, natural rubber and licorice. The wine is laser focused in its intensity and its lasting freshness. With those Nebbiolo tannins, this wine should hold steady on an even longer aging trajectory.

The 2007 Roero Riserva Mombeltramo is an attractive wine built for near-term drinking. Sweet roses and berries emerge from the glass, but once past the initial burst of fruit the aromas and flavors start showing slightly oxidative notes that suggest the wine is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Malvira is one of Roero's most inspired producers. In particular readers should focus on the estate's Arneis and Roero bottlings. Importers: Beverly Malen Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463, Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (212) 243-9463; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007; Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463; Triage Wines, Portland, OR; tel. (206) 883-0543; Trilussa Wine Company, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 499-8466; Natural Wines, Boulder, CO; tel.-(303) 588-6122; Vino Vino, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 665-7515