Made with certified organic fruit, the Massimo Rivetti 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Serraboella is showing beautifully right now, with some sweetness from the fruit and the toasted oak contrasted against simmering background notes of aged fruit. Those tertiary aromas include dried plum, potting soil, tar and black licorice. This is an amply perfumed and intense Barbaresco Riserva from the village of Neive.

This wine shows some extra concentration that comes from the sunny warmth of the vintage, in part, and also from the old age of the vines. Fruit is sourced from 65-year-old organically farmed plants, and older grapevines tend to show richer flavors. The Massimo Rivetti 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Serraboella is only made in the best years, and this vintage saw a production of 5,000 bottles. There is a bright medley of fruit and floral tones, back by some licorice and ferrous soil. The wine is lean-bodied, but you are aware of the softening tannins.

Going back in time, the 2006 Barbaresco Riserva Serraboella is a modern and bright expression that boasts good use of oak to soften the wine’s natural acidity and sharpness. Dark chocolate and carob seed segue to ethereal tones of licorice, cola, dried herb and forest berry. The wine is put together nicely and will promise seamless evolution over the next ten years. Drink: 2015-2025. Importers: World Wide Wines, www.premieritalianwines.com; Superior Wines, www.superiorwineselections.com