Nikolaihof has been farmed biodynamically since 1971, and the benefits show in a wine like this, whose fresh, hedgerow aromas just sing from the glass. The fruit is fresh, crisp and intensely flavored, with currants and sweet pears alongside crafted acidity and just a touch of softness to finish. Not complex, but so drinkable. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. ——R.V.(4/1/2005)—— 90