The 2016 Viognier Roll Ranch is a beautiful wine, wafting from the glass with an understated bouquet of peach, apricot and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with nice juicy acidity and tension at the core, and a long, vibrant and perfumed finish. While this certainly possesses a texture and perfume that are unmistakably Viognier, it's a comparatively delicate, refreshing interpretation of the variety—in terms that Northern Rh?ne lovers will understand, more Perret than Cuilleron. Enjoy it over the next five to six years.

While a rock solid white with its clean, crisp notes of peach, citrus and mint, the 2014 Viognier Roll Ranch lacks any true Viognier character. Nevertheless, it's a high quality, classy white to drink over the coming couple of years.

A great Viognier from California, Adam's 2013 Viognier Roll Ranch comes from a hot terroir located near the estate in Ojai. It offers tons of saltiness in its white peach, citrus and floral aromatics, and this flow to a medium-bodied, juicy, beautifully pure white that has good acidity and a clean, dry finish. Seeing full malo and aging on lees in older French oak, it should drink beautifully for 2-3 years.

The 2012 Viognier Roll Ranch is a beauty! Perfumed, floral and classy, it has loads of sweet peach and tropical fruits, tangerine and white flowers that flow nicely to a medium-bodied, sweetly fruited profile on the palate. There’s good acidity here as well, and it should shine for 2-3 years. This was a mammoth tasting with winemaker Adam Tolmach and assistant Fabien Castel. While I had a number of these shipped to my office in Colorado (where I was able to follow the wines for multiple days), there were still upward of 30 bottles to taste through when I showed up at the estate. Adam continues to pull in his harvest dates, and in a number of cases, has released two cuvees from each vineyard, one harvested early (the Special Bottling) and one harvested later, which is still on the early edge. I have mixed feelings about the new style here, and while these early pick dates give his wines beautiful tension, acidity and energy, it comes at the expense of texture and richness, and the wines have a sappy, resinous, if not green, character that won’t be for everyone. Nevertheless, there are certainly some outstanding wines here. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

The 2010 Viognier Roll Ranch offers up white flowers, nectarine, white peaches and spices in a crisp, vibrant style well suited for near-term drinking. Clean veins of minerality support the steely, focused finish. Tolmach and his team farm this parcel in Ojai. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com