The 2010 Viognier Roll Ranch offers up white flowers, nectarine, white peaches and spices in a crisp, vibrant style well suited for near-term drinking. Clean veins of minerality support the steely, focused finish. Tolmach and his team farm this parcel in Ojai. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com