The 2008 Grenache Thompson is a deceptively medium-bodied wine endowed with considerable palate presence and depth. Dark red cherries, flowers and mint are woven together in this relatively delicate, refined Grenache. I especially like the integrity of the fruit, but find less of interest in the aromatics. If the bouquet develops with further time in bottle, the 2008 could very well merit a higher score. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Even better then the 2005 Grenache is the 2004 Grenache Thompson Vineyard. Aromas of cigar box, kirsch, licorice, and pepper are followed by broad, savory, medium to full-bodied flavors, good underlying acidity, and ripe tannin. This beauty should drink nicely for 5-7 years. A recent vertical tasting of all the Thompson Syrahs offered some wonderful surprises. The sensational 2003 (rated 93) was a powerful, opulent, nearly over the top Syrah (the type of wine Tolmach supposedly despises). It’s a great wine in the making. The 2002 (rated 89?) seemed somewhat monolithic and closed, but the 2001 (rated 95) was fabulous, with great intensity, and notes of charcoal, tapenade, blackberries, and creosote. The 2000 Thompson Special Bottling (rated 94+) behaved like a spicy, leather and black fruit-dominated Pauillac, with huge structure, fabulous concentration, and a long finish. The 1999 (rated 93) offered a beautiful nose of flowers, black fruits, espresso beans, and licorice. Rich, broad, savory, and long, it was stunning. The 1998 (rated 91) came across like a top-notch French Hermitage. Herbal with black olive notes intermixed with black cherries and cassis, it could easily be mistaken for a top vintage of Jaboulet’s Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert. The 1997 Syrah Henry David (named after Adam’s son) was rated 94. At ten years of age, it is a fabulous wine exhibiting notes of licorice, creosote, plum sauce, blackberries, and smoke. This meaty, chewy, full-bodied, fleshy Syrah coats the palate, stains the teeth, and is still a youngster in terms of development. It should drink well for another 10-15 years or more. Tel. (805) 649-1674