Sweet red berries, mint, freshly cut roses, spices and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from the 2010 Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard. Silky tannins frame the fruit through to the elegant, polished finish, where high-toned floral notes resonate beautifully. The 2010 Kobler impresses for its refined personality. Winemaker Tyler Thomas used 40% whole clusters and added 2% Viognier to the Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker Tyler Thomas share a passion for cool-climate marginal sites. Given the focus on sourcing from top vineyards, it is hardly a surprise that the vineyard-designates are the most exciting wines in this lineup. I have a harder time finding the same level of enthusiasm for the winery’s numerous blended cuvees, but these are all excellent to outstanding wines that merit serious attention.Tel. (707) 592-0782; www.donelanwines.com

The 2009 Syrah Kobler Vineyard comes from the cool climate of the Green Valley, which borders the Sonoma Coast appellation. This Cote Rotie-inspired Syrah is co-fermented with 5-10% Viognier. The 2009 is a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Viognier with 70% stems utilized. The alcohol of 13.8% is relatively modest by Syrah standards. An exotic perfume of lychee nuts, white peaches, black cherries, black currants and subtle oak emerges from the glass of this delicate, medium-bodied, concentrated red wine. It possesses terrific fruit as well as an elegance and freshness that are French-like. Enjoy it over the next decade. (Not yet released)This is a fascinating group of wines from extremely cool climate Sonoma sites made by proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker, Tyler Thomas. They have produced an exceptionally elegant portfolio of 2009s that is true to the character of this cooler than normal vintage. This winery, which was originally known as Pax Cellars, has always produced remarkable Syrahs and the early vintages are aging fabulously well.Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784

3 An amazing wine, massively concentrated in fruit, yet beautifully balanced. Clearly one of the greatest California Syrahs of the vintage. Dry and complex, it shows intricate flavors of blackberries, Canadian bacon, mushu pork sauce, black pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Gorgeous and compelling, but far too young. Drink 2012–2018. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 94

The 2008 Syrah Kobler Vineyard (includes 8% co-fermented Viognier and 100% whole clusters) exhibits exotic, floral, Cote Rotie-like aromas with more raspberry and black cherry characteristics intermixed with the Viognier’s spring flower garden scents. Medium to full-bodied, savory and fleshy with considerable complexity, this delicious 2008 should drink well for a decade or more. This is a fascinating group of wines from extremely cool climate Sonoma sites made by proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker, Tyler Thomas. They have produced an exceptionally elegant portfolio of 2009s that is true to the character of this cooler than normal vintage. This winery, which was originally known as Pax Cellars, has always produced remarkable Syrahs and the early vintages are aging fabulously well.Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784