Here's a wine that shows a nice jump forward in quality since the last time I tasted it. The certified organic 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio a' Frati (made with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo and finished in a combination of botte and tonneaux for 18 months) reveals a generous, mid-weight approach. It shows dark concentration and plenty of varietal freshness and a bit of kick or tightness from the tannins. Another few years in the bottle should soften them. The wine offers dimension and length, although its personality feels quite austere. The fruit represents a special selection culled from a 12-hectare site at a cool 450 to 500 meters in elevation. Production is 24,000 bottles.

The Rocca di Castagnoli 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio a' Frati is a nicely balanced and fresh expression of Sangiovese with dark cherry, cassis, blue flowers and tilled soil. This is an authentic and true wine with a clean and elegant approach. Pair it with some thinly sliced liver and onions.

Packaged in a very heavy glass bottle, the 2014 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio a'Frati is a delightful wine with loads of brightness and fruit energy. The blend is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo. Rocca di Castagnoli has done a terrific job in a difficult vintage. Dark fruit nuances are folded into spice, toast, tar and cigar box. The finish is smooth and silky with no sharp edges. Some 25,000 bottles were made.

The Rocca di Castagnoli 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio a'Frati is a bright and crisp expression with classic lines. Sangiovese (95%) and Canaiolo (5%) are fermented in stainless steel and aged in large-format oak casks. This is a Chianti Classico from yesteryear with tight berry aromas followed by bitter almond and fragrant rose hip. The wine opens to a dark ruby color and shows a mid-weight style. Some 15,000 bottles were produced.

The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio A’Frati reveals gorgeous complexity and nuance. Tobacco, wild flowers, mint and plums are some of the many notes that are woven together in this classy, refined Riserva. Hints of tar and licorice give the finish a brooding quality that is quite attractive. Everything is in the right place for the 2008 to develop beautifully over the next 10-20 years, perhaps longer. Poggio a’ Frati is 95 % Sangiovese and 5% Colorino, aged in tonneaux and casks. This is another stupendous wine for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. These are two utterly fabulous wines from Rocca di Castagnoli. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898