This pretty wine has the pedigree to stand up to a Moroccan chicken tajine with preserved lemon. The oak-aged Ronco del Gelso 2017 Friuli Isonzo Rive Alte Pinot Grigio Sot Lis Rivis opens to an off-gold color with mature aromas of peach, nectarine, toasted almond and crushed almond. The hot vintage contributes to the richness and creaminess of the wine, and the style adopted here aims to show a denser, more age-worthy side of Pinot Grigio. Fruit is sourced from a 5.5-hectare site with rocky gravel soils. About 30,000 bottles were made.

This is a terrific value buy that delivers unexpected intensity and complexity. The 2015 Friuli Isonzo Rive Alte Pinot Grigio Sot Lis Rivis is impeccably constructed with a creamy, medium-bodied approach. The wine delivers waves of stone fruit, apricot, preserved lemon and powdered saffron. Those soft and spherical aromas are tightly stitched together with a thread of flinty mineral. The wine is open and generous now. It ages in 25-hectoliter oak botti on the fine lees for one year. Production is 22,000-bottles strong.

The 2013 Friuli Isonzo Rive Alte Pinot Grigio Sot Lis Rivis is a terrific expression of one of the world's most underrated workhorse grapes. This is an enormously bright and buoyant white wine with pretty aromas of almond blossom, peach cobbler and candied lemon. The wine offers soft and luscious fruit layers in the mouth with bright acidity that keeps the palate clean. This is an oak-aged Pinot Grigio, although there are no evident signs of wood.

The 2012 Isonzo del Friuli Rive Alte Pinot Grigio Sot Lis Rivis is not your standard Pinot Grigio by any measure. This is a thick and generous interpretation with unusual intensity and finesse. The wine sees one-year contact with oak and the signature touches of Friuli winemaking – a school that excels in the production of clean but generous white wines. Sweet peach and pineapple appear on the close. Drink: 2014-2018. Importer: Vitis Imports, www.vitisimports.com