The 2009 Rosso Piceno Piediprato shows gorgeous depth and richness in its dark red fruit, spices, licorice and tobacco. All of the elements come together beautifully in the glass. The oak is nicely integrated. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame a finish that balances radiance and freshness quite nicely. Bright floral notes ring out on the finish. The Piediprato is 50% Montepulciano and 50% Sangiovese, aged 12 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide range of delicious, value-priced wines. The reds in particular are worth note even if the 2009s aren't among the very finest wines I had had from the estate.Importers: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021

The 2008 Rosso Piceno Piediprato is an attractive, mid-weight red. Sweet red cherries, minerals flowers and spices come together nicely in the glass. A lovely vein of minerality confers energy and vitality on the finish, where tar, licorice and subtle French oak add further complexity. This is a fairly accessible Piediprato that should drink well right out of the gate. The Piediprato is equal parts Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide range of wines, but readers are best served focusing on the reds. Incredibly, all of those wines can be had for under $25 a bottle.Importers: The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021

The 2007 Rosso Piceno Piediprato (50% Montepulciano, 50% Sangiovese) is soft and generous in its dark red fruit. The wine possesses lovely balance but not quite the energy or structure of the very finest vintages. Today the 2007 comes across as a wine to enjoy sooner rather than later. The Piediprato is aged in a combination of cask and medium-size French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Saladini Pilastri is an excellent source for tasty, value-priced wines. The Marche remains one of Italy’s least-known regions, and that means readers can essentially drink everything up to this producer’s top wines without spending princely sums.Importers: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021; The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021

The estate’s 2006 Rosso Piceno Piediprato (50% Sangiovese, 50% Montepulciano) reveals a layered expression of perfumed red fruits in a medium-bodied finessed style with notable juiciness and lovely overall balance. The Piediprato is aged in a combination of large casks although a small amount of medium-sized 5 hectoliter barrels are used as well. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Saladini Pilastri makes some of the most delicious, value-priced wines in Italy. Most of the estate’s current releases were reviewed in Issue 178.Importer: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021

The 2004 Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato (50% Sangiovese, 50% Montepulciano) is a vibrant, perfumed wine with elegant, refined tannins that frame a core of dark cherries, violets and underbrush. It offers terrific balance and poise. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.I was very impressed with Saladini Pilastri, particularly considering that last year the wines were all over the place in terms of quality. The Marche remains one of the least-known regions in Italy, so readers can drink all the way up to the top bottlings here while spending less than $25 a bottle.Importer: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021 Importer: The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021