This is a pure expression of Sangiovese that was previously labeled Sangiovese di Romagna, but it now falls under the Rubicone IGT appellation. The 2016 Aulente is an entry-level red, with some 300,000 bottles made, that offers a fresh and bright bouquet of cherry, raspberry and red currant. There is simplicity and brightness here, gearing this bottle up for a simple pasta and tomato sauce. Winemaking is executed (with fermentation in stainless steel and brief aging in large oak casks) in such a manner as to highlight that fruit purity.

The 2012 Aulente is a beautifully feminine wine with violets and lavender sprig that morph into dark fruit and powdered chocolate. The bouquet is laced with all sort of small details like licorice, wet earth and curry leaf. Fresh acidity marks the close of this Sangiovese-based wine. The value here is exceptional. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. San Patrignano is a truly inspiring story. It is a community center for recovering drug addicts located on a sprawling property with vineyards, horses and farm stables for making cheese and sausage. There is even an excellent on-site restaurant where everything served is sourced or produced on site. All the labor at San Patrignano – from making wines to the restaurant staffing – is performed by the recovering addicts as part of their reintegration learning. The wines are absolutely stunning and have shown an impressive stylistic evolution over the years. When I first tasted San Patrignano a decade ago, they mirrored the outgoing personality of consulting enologist Riccardo Cotarella. Today, however, they have embraced an ethereal and exceedingly understated persona. Various American importers including: Vinvino Wine Co.; www.vinvinowineco.com; Masciarelli Wine; www.masciarelliwine.com

San Patrignano’s 2008 Aulente Rosso Rubicone (Sangiovese) is a hearty red packed with red cherries, tobacco, licorice and spices. Some rough edges remain, but with the right food the Rubicone will be delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The estate’s 2006 Aulente Sangiovese Rubicone (100% Sangiovese) is a deeply-colored, fragrant wine packed with ripe dark fruit. Here, too, varietal notes take a back seat to a style that favors an overt expression of fruit over clarity, detail and nuance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642