From Mia Klein, this is a seriously good Cabernet Sauvignon, even better than the winery’s fine 2004. It shows a great balance of ripe tannins and fine acidity, with a judicious application of smoky oak. The flavors, of black currants and ripe mashed black cherries, have complex overtones of dark chocolate, olive tapenade and mushu plum sauce. Gorgeous now, and should age effortlessly for a decade.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 95

Proprietor Mia Klein’s Napa Cabernets include the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, a dark ruby/plum-tinged effort revealing sweet aromas of pepper, an Old Bay-like spice (traditionally used for Maryland steamed crabs), and plenty of black cherry, currant, and mocha scents. Medium-bodied and spicy with an herbal edge, it will drink well for 5-7 years. Tel. (707) 258-8119; Fax (707) 258-8132