The 2008 Pinot Nero Riserva is a light-bodied offering with good varietal character and nicely balanced, supple fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. The Cantina Produttori Bolzano-St. Magdalena makes a wide range of wines, the best of which are well worth seeking out. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2005 Pinot Nero Riserva is a delicate, understated Pinot, with pretty, varietal red cherry fruit and a floral quality that carries through to the long, poised finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. The Cantina Produttori Bolzano is a large cooperative that was born in 2001 when the Santa Magdalena and the Kellerei Gries wineries joined forces. The wines are still labeled under the two separate labels, which is how I have listed them here. Oenologist Stephan Filippi oversees the estate’s large production. The highlights among current releases are without doubt the top reds, especially the Lagrein Taber which is a reference-point wine for the zone. If I could only have one Lagrein, it would without question be St. Magdalena’s Lagrein Riserva Taber. Importer: Summa Vitis, Inc. Sonoma, CA; tel (707) 933-0907