A Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend off the estate. The winemaker says the Syrah brings complexity and backbone, although I don’t know that the Cabernet needs much help. But this is an extraordinary wine. It’s richly sumptuous in chocolaty, black currant fruit, and soft as velvet, but without being cloying, due to the sweet tannins and bracing structure. ——S.H.(11/15/2004)—— 95