Made with 19% Merlot, this Cabernet’s tannins are quite hard and firm, giving it a tight astringency. Even so, the underlying fruit is so powerful, it breaks through in a mouthburst of blackberries, black cherries, black raspberries and an oaky, smoky richness that’s almost chocolaty. A very fine, intense and ageworthy wine that should develop bottle complexity over the next decade or more.——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 92