The 2017 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard, aged 16 months in 20% new French oak, opens minerally with crushed shell, petrichor and saline notes, slowly opening to lemon pith, almonds and crunchy tree fruits with hints of white blossoms. It’s light to medium-bodied and tensile, slowly expanding outward to notes of honeycomb and hazelnut, reined in by juicy acidity and finishing long and energetic. This should improve well in bottle.

The 2015 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard exudes ripe nectarines, spiced pears and applesauce with touches of coriander seed, white pepper and anise. Medium-bodied with great tension, it has a lovely satiny texture and long finish paved with pepper and spices.

Another terrific white is the 2014 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard, which is located in the Edna Valley and was planted in 1991 (it's named after Talley Farms founder Oliver Talley). Barrel-fermented and aged 15 months in 16% new French oak, it's a richer, mineral-laced effort that offers lots of buttered orchard fruits, caramelized citrus and brioche to go with a textured, layered style on the palate that still has impressive purity, tension and acidity. Drink it over the coming 5-6 years.

The 2013 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard is brilliant and one of the more racy, steel and lively whites in the lineup. Giving up lots of citrus blossom, salt block, mineral and a touch of white flowers, it's medium-bodied, balanced and elegant, with beautiful tension and vibrancy. Completely barrel fermented and aged in 20% new French oak, it's one serious, classy Chardonnay that represents a terrific value at this quality level.

A brilliant Chardonnay that’s a serious value, the 2012 Chardonnay Oliver’s Vineyard offers lots of white peach, toasted bread, sweet apple tart and a saline-like minerality that keeps you coming back to the glass. Fabulously pure, elegant and focused, with integrated acidity and no hard edges, drink this beauty over the coming 3-5 years.