The 2012 Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva Santa Maria (made with organically farmed fruit) has taken on a very interesting and attractive evolutionary trajectory. The bouquet is redolent of balsamic tones that suggest eucalyptus oil, cola and licorice. To my nose, that eucalyptus tone is by far and long the most defining. The wine is clean and direct in terms of mouthfeel, with a polished, almost glossy shine to those tannins.

The 2007 Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva Santa Maria is another compelling wine from Le Calcinaie. Dark red fruit, subtle French oak, tobacco and earthiness meld together in a soft, textured style that is incredibly appealing. The fruit remains rather primary, and while the wine is enjoyable today, readers who prefer more tertiary nuance will want to cellar this for another year or two at the very least. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2006 Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva Santa Maria is a single-vineyard selection of Sangiovese and Canaiolo from old vines. Firm tannins frame a vibrant, focused core of dark red fruit, leather, smoke, licorice and minerals. The wine possesses outstanding persistence and a long, clean finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119