This powerful, full-bodied, muscular 1997 lacks finesse and charm, but compensates for that in its full-throttle, extracted personality. There are copious quantities of plum, cherry, and new oak flavors. If this wine develops as it should over the next decade, it will merit a score in the high eighties. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 1997 San Leonardo comes from a landmark vintage that was characterized by warm temperatures and very little rainfall. In fact, 1997, 1995 and 1990 are similar in terms of the general lack of rain. Of course, that dryness helped to contribute to greater concentration and intensity of fruit. This is a powerful and gorgeous expression that bursts open with dark fruit aromas, spice, leather, cola, tar, licorice, wet earth, porcino mushroom and grilled herbs. Of particular beauty are the delicate floral tones of violet and rose that linger softly in the background. The wine is full and generous with excellent tannin management. There are no sharp edges here. Instead, the wine is round and soft on the palate. This is a true standout that will stand the test of time. It should be decanted up to three hours before serving.