The 2009 Dolee (Friulano) is quite beautiful in this vintage. Exuberance from the warmth of the year is nicely balanced by the wine’s detail and nuance. Flowers, mint and juicy yellow peaches wrap around the succulent finish. The Dolee has managed to preserve quite a bit of freshness within the context of the year. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Proprietor Gianfranco Gallo has a preference for rich, textured wines. In 2009, a year that saw a long heat wave at the end of August, many of his wines are even bigger than they usually are. The best selections, though, possess terrific overall balance. Vie di Romans has a fabulous website (www.viediromans.it) full of technical information on recent vintages and the estate’s wines, among other topics. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife's extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2008 Dolee offers up plenty of juicy, succulent apricots, peaches, flowers and mint in a rich, unctuous style. As good as this is, it isn't as exciting as the best wines here. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a beautiful set of wines from Vie di Romans and proprietor Gianfranco Gallo. Vintage 2008 wasn't easy, which makes these wines all the more commendable. At press time I was notified that the estate's importer would change with the 2009 vintage. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife's extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2007 Dolee (Friulano) offers up apricots, peaches and flowers in a rich sensual style. A round, polished finish rounds out this beautifully-balanced medium-bodied white. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Proprietor Gianfranco Gallo is one of the leading producers in Friuli. His wines typically seek a rich, lush expression of fruit. In 2007, though, many of the wines come across as overly heavy. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife’s extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119