Like the San Martino, the 2006 Cortaccio (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a large-frame wine with fleshy tones that define its very composition. Finely etched aromas of dark leather, syrupy creme de cassis, rum cake, mocha fudge and toasted brown sugar or caramel explode from the glass. In the mouth, Cortaccio delivers enormous power and super-thick concentration. It’s almost too much of a good thing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Importer: Ethica Wines; www.ethicawines.com

The 2005 Cortaccio (Cabernet Sauvignon) is a bit one-dimensional, with big, powerful tannins that weigh on a core of dark fruit, grilled herbs and espresso. The Cortaccio was aged in 100% new French oak barrels. There is an element of polish that is missing. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Villa Cafaggio is located in the famous Conca d’Oro in Panzano, one of the very finest spots in all of Tuscany. The estate’s neighbors include Fontodi, La Massa and Castello dei Rampolla. It would be nice to see Villa Cafaggio make wines of a similar level. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5945

The 2004 Cortaccio is gorgeous. An array of dark fruit, wild herbs, blackberries, spices and toasted oak flow from this layered and complex wine. Though voluptuous and soft, there is enough tannic backbone lurking below the fruit to guarantee another decade-plus of very fine drinking. Cortaccio is Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak. The vineyards are in Panzano. Although a sub-zone of Greve, this is technically a microclimate that deserves to be recognized for its own distinctive qualities. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5935

The 2003 Cortaccio (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is packed with sweet, dark fruit and shows plenty of intensity, but the hot vintage seems to have baked out most of the wine’s varietal character. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5945