As good as the winery’s other 2008s are, this wine raises the stakes. It’s bone dry, deeply tannic and marked by classic varietal flavors of blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate, with sweet, smoky oak. Almost a food group in itself for its complexity, it’s dazzling now for its sheer luxurious deliciousness, yet is guaranteed to develop over at least the next 10 years.——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 98