The Nino Negri 2016 Sforzato di Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle is this estate's top wine (with 25,000 bottles produced). Only made in the best vintages from a special selection of Nebbiolo grapes, the wine sees air-dried fruit in the celebrated Sforzato tradition. The first vintage of this wine was 1983. The bouquet presents dried fruit and cherry confit aromas that come from the appassimento process, some oak spice and toast from the aging and linear mineral tones that reflect the granite soils of these mountains. This is a round and thickly concentrated wine with a rich phenolic profile to help it age over the next decade or so.

The 2007 Sfursat 5 Stelle is a drop-dead, gorgeous wine laced with dark red fruit, licorice, new leather and French oak. All of the elements meld together with notable grace in this rich, expansive 5 Stelle. The fragrant, silky fruit flows through to an enveloping, generous finish. This is another superb effort from Nino Negri. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2006 Sforzato di Valtellina 5 Stelle Sfursat, on the other hand, is sensational. This sensual, textured wine emerges from the glass with generous red fruit, flowers, minerals, tar and licorice. The 5 Stelle reveals tons of inner perfume and richness, along with a polished finish. This is an excellent starting point for readers who want to experience first-class Sfursat. Negri gave the 5 Stelle 16 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2026. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700