I tasted a very promising cask sample of 2003 St. Laurent last year, but that did not entirely prepare me for the quality of the final, bottled blend of 2003 St. Laurent Haidegrund, which is the vintage currently on offer in the U.S. This plays Gevrey to the 2004’s Volnay, displaying deep, dark cherry fruit, charred meat, and brown spices. A bit of a leathery, meaty Burgundian “stink” on the nose only adds to the fascination. Dense and grainy like the 2004, this also evinces a bit of tannic roughness that comes with the vintage whether here or in Burgundy. I find the force of this wine’s finishing fruit and spice more than persuasive and capable of covering the tannins, but I do not believe that these are of the sort to melt away, and I would be inclined to drink it – very much inclined, I must add – over the next 2-3 years. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300