The 2012 Gomariz X is a rarity in the region, and is 95% Albarino with the balance Treixadura grown on schist soils. Neither Albarino nor schist (decomposed slate, locally called xisto, therefore the X-name) are very common in the zone. The fruit comes from a single-vineyard, As Penelas, which yields enough fruit to fill 6,000 bottles. Bright yellow-colored, vey floral and aromatic, with freshly cut grass, fennel, aniseed, peach and apricots in a powerful wine, with a ripe palate, round, unctuous, with good acidity and a touch of minerality (flint). Persistent, very serious Albarino and a pleasure to drink. Drink 2013-2017. Coto de Gomariz is one of the leading wineries in Ribeiro. They are located in the small village of Gomariz, on the right bank of the Avia River, in the Leiro zone, one of the best quarters of the appellation. It all started in 1978 when Ricardo Carreiro, a local who had made his fortune in America, started replanting his first vineyard in the village. Since 2001 there has been a big generational change with a young team inclined to follow biodynamic practices, the theories of Japanese Masanobu Fukuoka and the cycles of the moon for work in the vineyards and the winery. They now own 28 hectares of vineyards, 24 of which are in Gomariz itself, and the rest in neighboring villages. The soils are mostly granite with some schist and a little clay. Eight of these hectares are planted with red grapes. The wines are made by Xose Lois Sebio, who is very active defending wines produced from slope vineyards and has some small parallel projects of his own. The total output is 140,000 bottles per year, with some very small cuvees. They have a wide range of wines, and a new label The Flower and the Bee, with a modern, informal image directed at younger consumers. Importers: P.R. Grisley Co., West Salt Lake City, UT; tel. (801)706-2737; www.prgrisley.com; Terraneo Merchants, Lincolnwood, IL; tel. (312) 753-9134