The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve represents a selection of the top 10% of the vintage’s best vineyard sites across several AVAs. The wine (which contains 4% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot) is purple-colored with an expressive perfume of cedar, spice box, pencil lead, black currant, and blackberry. Dense on the palate and quite rich, it is already displaying some complexity. With enough structure to evolve for another 2-3 years, this wine will likely merit an outstanding rating when it fully blossoms. Columbia Crest, owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value-priced wines. The current collection will only enhance the winery’s reputation. Columbia Crest is usually thought of as a producer of value-priced wines selling for under $20. However, their upper-level, limited-production wines merit serious attention as they, too, are value-priced compared to the competitionTel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Scents of tobacco enhance the ripe, lush black fruits, which amply demonstrate the power of Washington grapes. The winemaking is polished, the barrel aging adds vanilla and smoke, and at this new, lower price, it’s a good value as well.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 89