The deep purple-colored 1998 Zinfandel Jackass Hill Vineyard (17% alcohol) is tightly-knit and structured... at least initially. After ten minutes of airing, the wine begins to unfold, revealing multiple dimensions in its glorious perfume, richness, and complexity. It is a massive Zinfandel with spectacular aromatics (smoke, prunes, plums, raspberries, coffee, cedar, new saddle leather) as well as viscous, chewy, full-throttle flavors. A wine of enormous force as well as unbelievable symmetry, it should age for a decade. I would not be surprised to see well-stored examples display considerable fruit and complexity at age twenty or thirty. Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463