The rare 2014 Zinfandel Jackass Hill Vineyard (63 cases) is, I believe, California’s most expensive Zinfandel, first produced in 1993. The vines are head-pruned and the slopes stupidly steep (hence the name Jackass, attributed to one of the older Martinellis who planted this vineyard over 100 years ago). The wine is firmer, has more tannin, and displays notes of forest floor, underbrush, blackberry, black raspberry and a touch of barbecued meats in a deep, full-throttle, balls-to-the-walls style. Drink it over the next 20 years.