The 2002 Jackass Hill Zinfandel might be too much of a good thing. One-hundred sixty-five cases of 17.5% alcohol make it certainly perhaps the highest alcohol ever achieved in a Martinelli Zinfandel, and it is a legitimate question if this is still “table wine.” The remarkable thing is that they get the fermentation to finish, and the wine is completely dry with no residual sugar. An extraordinary nose of maple syrup, sassafras, figs, smoke, roasted meats, mincemeat, and black cherries jump from the glass of this layered, full-throttle, dense, powerful, potent wine. I would opt for drinking it during its first decade of life to take advantage of the fruit, but expect more than a glass to knock you “side-ways.” Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463