I had a chance to do a mini-vertical of the Etude Cabernet Sauvignons, and all of them performed extremely well. Most of them appeared to need additional cellaring, and each of them suggested to me that they have another two decades of life. I rated the 1990, 90 (outstanding, but dwarfed by more recent efforts). As insiders know, these wines are the handcrafted products of one of California's most influential and successful winemakers/consultants, Tony Soter. Soter has a superb list of clients, including Araujo Estate, Dalla Valle, and Viader. His own wines are also brilliant, and in 1997, his portfolio will include a Pinot Noir produced from his first vineyard - in Oregon's Willamette Valley. Tel. (707) 257-5300; Fax (707) 257-6022