With vineyards at close to 1700 feet of altitude, one might think that Poggerino would be better known for light and perfumed wines, but Piero Lanza manages to achieve very good ripeness in his grapes and his wines are by no means lacking in body or depth. The 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva, the best he has made to date, offers much chocolate and tar along with its red currant and plum fruit, a sizeable structure with plenty of richness and texture, and a sweet, lasting finish with the elegant tannins of the high vineyards of Chianti Classico. Drink: 2006-2014. Importer: Vinarium, New York, NY; tel. (212) 439-9757