In contrast with last year, the Weingartner's 2007 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten displays a certain amount of botrytis-engendered bitterness. Its floral aromas seem especially bitter-sweet and mingle with pungent citrus oils. Formidably-concentrated and palpably dense, with some fine suggestions of peach and nut oil richness emerging on the palate, and with striking penetration, it leaves behind an impression of citrus zest and chili peppers. This is going to bear watching and might be worth cellaring for several years. Roman Horvath and Heinz Frischengruber are on a roll now, so one wants to root for their retaining the marvelous value that has distinguished Freie Weingartner wines in their best periods, because top-flight Wachau wines at prices like theirs are scarcely available anywhere else. Yields on Gruner Veltliner in 2007 were a bit high for optimal, Frischengruber opines, but then, the yields in Riesling obviously came at the expense of botrytis. And it goes without saying that selectivity is a challenge in coop situations, even though one which the team here has previously proven themselves capable of meeting. Nearly 40% of production was picked as Steinfeder, a quality grade all but missing last year, and whose volume in this vintage permitted enhanced attention to the fruit that remained for Federspiel and Smaragd. All of the wines reviewed below are bottled under the -Domane Wachau- label.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.

This is a fine expression of truly mineral Riesling. The wine’s acidity is powerful, but so is its rich peach, green plum fruit laced with pink grapefruit. It needs time, at least 4–5 years.——R.V.(10/1/2008)—— 93