The 2004 Corullon is a more structured effort from hillsdide vineyards. It has fragrant aromatics of flowers, cassis, raspberries, and a touch of minerality. The flavors are precise and concentrated with enough silky tannin to suggest that another 2-3 years of bottle age would allow further evolution. It should drink well for 8-10 years thereafter. This estate was started in 1998 by Alvaro Palacios. It has steep hillside vineyards and 60- to 100-year-old vines planted in 100% Mencia, a varietal indigenous to Bierzo, a cool-climate D.O. Importer; Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

This is about as aromatically complex as Bierzo gets. It shows radical minerality, bright berry fruit, purity and passion. The palate is a fast and exciting ride highlighted by excellent acidity, kick and ripe but restrained flavors. Corullon gets better and better with each passing vintage.——M.S.(11/1/2007)—— 94