The 1999 Cornas Domaine St.-Pierre was an outstanding effort prior to bottling. The wine is lean, medium-bodied, and closed, with little stuffing, density, or muscle. It is an emaciated example that has not survived the mise en bouteille. Although it will last for 10-12 years, it will not provide much pleasure. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Jaboulet bought this 7.3-acre estate in 1998, and this is the first full vintage. It is a huge wine, with all the true inky blackness and density of a Cornas. Firm, dry and concentrated, it also has generous ripe black plums, a hint of sweet jelly. It makes an excellent mix of the traditional foursquare Cornas style, with modern sophistication. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 93