Readers looking for a petite La Mission should check out the 1998 La Chapelle, a gorgeously complex, rich, Grave-styled wine with a smoky, tobacco, black currant, earthy-scented nose, fat, luscious, concentrated, seamless flavors, and beautifully integrated acidity and tannin. This fleshy, complex offering is already delicious, yet will last for a decade. Thirty thousand bottles were produced.