Rustic elements prevail in the 2007 Syrah Presidio. Game, tar, licorice, black pepper and olives emerge in this burly, intense wine. In my view, the Presidio lacks the level of textural elegance found in the best Ojai Syrahs. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com