The 2009 Cosme Palacio, with its old-fashioned label, invokes memories of traditional Rioja. Pure Tempranillo from old vines in Laguardia, it is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and staged in oak barriques (100% new) for 18 months. For a wine that saw extended aging in new oak, the wood is very well integrated and the vanilla, nutmeg and other spicy aromas are intermixed with ripe berries, aniseed and a touch of leather. The palate is medium-bodied, but reveals more of the time in oak, as it shows an abundance of tannins that almost overwhelms the fruit. Still, the flavors are quite focused and come through as quite clean. However, it's still a good up-to-date traditional Reserva. 14,000 bottles.