One of Burgundy's finest village wines in 1995 is Burguet's Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes. Exhibiting the concentration, extract, power and thick body of a grand cru, this darkly-colored, intensely spicy, chewy, tangy, highly structured wine is a testimony to Burguet's uncompromising winemaking. Velvety-textured, supple yet tannic, it requires 6+ years of cellaring and will last 9+ years.
This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided.
Burguet, without compromise, strives to make the highest quality wines he can. No herbicides are ever used on the vines, yields are kept low, and a severe sorting of the grapes is conducted on tables placed in the vineyards at harvest time. In the cellars, Burguet never fines or uses sulfur, nor has he ever added tartaric acid to give his wines structure (a common but illegal practice in Burgundy - US wineries are allowed to acidify and do it regularly). Burguet subjects his wine to a light Kieselguhr filtration. He suggests that his wines be decanted prior to drinking because his winemaking techniques minimize air contact.
A B. Wasserman Selection, Fax 011-33-3-80242970, Various importers.