Made when Pierre Giraud was still making the wines (his Daughter, Marie, didn't take over until early in the 2000s), the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee les Gallimardes is big, rich and full-bodied effort that has tons of meaty dark fruits, smoked beef, dried spice and dusty minerality in its Provencal, charming and highly enjoyable profile. It’s best drunk up, but like all well-made Chateauneuf du Papes, will continue to hold nicely for several years.