As is common, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Les Gallimardes has a lot in common with the 2011, yet has more depth and concentration. Kirsch, blackberry, roasted herbs, licorice and garrigue all make up this classic, rich, full-bodied and hedonistic beauty. It will drink well for another decade. One of my favorite estates in the Southern Rhone, Domaine Giraud is run by the brother/sister pair Marie and Francois Giraud, with Marie making the wines and Francois managing the vineyards. Created in 1974 by Pierre and Mireille Giraud, it wasn’t until 1998 that they bottled their first release (both a traditional Chateauneuf and a Cuvee Les Gallimardes). While some estates have a difficult transition from generation to generation, in this case, Pierre let Marie make the wines in 2001, and after tasting the results, quickly gave her full rein. In addition, Philippe Cambie lends his consulting advice here. The style certainly leans toward the hedonistic end of the spectrum, but the wines always have beautiful purity and classy, balanced profiles. For this tasting, we started with their Les Gallimardes cuvee and finished with the Les Grenache de Pierre. I’ve listed the wines in the order tasted. In addition to superb reds, they made a rock-solid white. Starting with the Les Gallimardes cuvee, this bottling comes all from the Les Galimardes lieu-dit that’s located in the southern, warmer portion of the appellation. The soils here are mostly rolled pebbles, and the vines are over 100 years in age. The wine is almost all Grenache (roughly 10% Syrah), completely destemmed (as of 1999) and has the Grenache aged all in tank and the Syrah all in smaller barrels. It’s always a rich, sexy and full-throttle effort, yet to me, it offers thrilling Chateauneuf du Pape character and is easily one of my favorite wines. Compared to the Les Grenache de Pierre release, the Les Gallimardes is more exuberant, overflowing and hedonistic. In addition, they implemented a stricter selection for this cuvee in 2005 and moved to using only their older vines. I think it shows, as current releases have additional depth, concentration and purity. Moving to their Grenaches de Pierre releases (which translates to “Grenache of their Grandfather”), this cuvee comes from 100-year-old vines planted in the sandy soils of the La Crau and Pignan lieux-dits. It’s made from 100% Grenache and aged almost completely in concrete tank. It’s always slightly more polished than the Les Gallimardes release and has beautiful complexity and purity, while not skimping on the textured or depth of fruit that’s present in all of Marie’s wines. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Gallimardes has all the same characteristics, but is more forward and on a faster evolutionary track. Its dense plum/ruby/purple color is not quite as opaque as the 2010's, and its bouquet includes smoky, roasted meat notes intertwined with kirsch liqueur, lavender, licorice, pepper and layer upon layer of glycerin-imbued black cherry and black currant fruit. This almost larger than life, spectacular Chateauneuf should age effortlessly for two decades. This morsellated estate, which has nearly 50 acres of vines (all organically farmed) spread throughout the appellation, has been resurrected and reinvigorated by Francois and Marie Giraud, whose cellars are in the northwest area of the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, close to Clos du Mont Olivet. Philippe Cambie, the consulting oenologist, has helped make this one of the up-and-coming super-stars of the appellation. In top vintages, three cuvees are produced, the classic Tradition along with single vineyard offerings from the Les Gallimardes lieu-dit and a spectacular wine called Les Grenaches de Pierre from 105 year old Grenache vines planted in pure sand from the Grand Pierre lieu-dit adjacent to Chateau Rayas. A white Chateauneuf du Pape is also produced. The 2009 red Chateauneuf du Papes performed better from bottle than they did last year from barrel.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565