Latour’s 2007 Meursault Poruzots exhibits citrus oils, crushed stone, and a fusil note in the nose. This seems to combine the rich low-tones of the Poruzots with an overtly chalky, stony cast. This is impressively dense, managing to steer wide of austerity despite its overt stoniness, thanks to a silken texture and amplitude unusual for its vintage. Hints of toasted walnut and citrus rind lend a bitter extension to the finish. I would look to follow this over the next 4-6 years. Jean-Pierre Latour is having none of the claim that 2007 and 2004 are similar. “2004 is about minerality, whereas 2007 is a lively vintage of fruit,” he insists, “but that didn’t become apparent until well along in the elevage. Because it was so cold over the winter,” he continues, “the wines precipitated a lot of tartaric acid, after which the malos came normally” (unlike in 2006 here) in early Spring. Latour reports healthy lees which he was happy to retain and stir to lend the wines textural richness. As a group, I found these more charming, refined, fun to drink, as well as nuanced than the 2006 collection, but white Burgundy lovers who in general preferred 2006 as a vintage should by all means check out Latour’s unusually broad, rich, and texturally pliable 2007s. Various importers, including Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718)482 0200; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029

Ripe apricot nose, beguiling hint of oak. Firm, concentrated, robust and quite oaky, but has admirable grip and a zesty earthiness. Quite austere and a reserved style, but has personality. Very good length.